A return to Orvieto

In 2005, Merrillee Ford and I attended a Maiolica painting and Ceramics class in Certaldo, Tuscany, Italy. Its a small town between Florence and Siena. Part of the class was taught by a very talented Italian ceramics painter by the name of Marino Moratti. At that time Marino had just purchased a 700-year-old castle in the town of Orvieto. We went to visit him in his new home and studio one day as part of a class field trip and I ended up purchasing a couple of his pieces. I realized that Orvieto is only a one hour train ride from Rome. So I decided to make Ovieto my first "Learn the System" train project from Rome.
On my second day here (the first day was learning the subway), I got up early and went to the Termini train station. But not early enough. November 1 is a national holiday (All Saints Day) here in Italy it's the last holiday before the Christmas Holidays. So everybody, families included, is taking advantage of a last gasp of the summer weather. And it was beautiful. About 60° maybe a little warmer no breeze just perfect fall weather. With trepidation, I walked on the train back to Torino, You head in that direction to get to Orvieto. I was thinking if the pass doesn't work, they can just throw me off the train. But it did work, and I got to Orvieto.

Another knowledge lesson. While I was waiting for the first train, the schedule board list the train and track it is on. Usually it only announces that about 10 minutes before it leaves. So I was carefully watching the board and it posted 2EST. So I went to track 2 but their was no train there. So I waited until it was the posted time to leave, and I saw on the board it was no longer listed. I went to the station agent and asked if the train was cancelled or something. No, she said, the train has already left. I said I was at the track and it never was there. Then she explained, the 2 was for track 2 but the EST meant it was a stacked train behind the train on track 1 (EST means east). So I was supposed to go to the train behind the train on track 1. I actually missed my first train. But there was another train in 30 minutes, and this train has a first class coach. I got on that one, and it was much more comfortable. I was off to Orvieto finally.

Orvieto is this very old Roman city on the top of this hill. The first challenge is to get to the top of the hill. 8 years ago, we were in a van. Now its just my legs, I thought. But I looked across from the train station and there was a funicular. A tram that goes up at a very steep incline but levels the car so the occupants don't fall out the back.

 I bought a ticket for 1.50$e (There are tickets for everything, like in Disneyland, bur not as expensive) and rode to the top. The first thing you see are the roman ruins, stabilized and available to be visited.

 These are massive brick walls, popping up out of the hillside rocks that make them impenetrable.

 That is why these towns survived for so many years, thru the Middle Ages and even during the world wars. They are impenetrable You just cant get in unless someone opens the drawbridge gate for you.

These are amazing engineering feats for 2000 years ago, and many of these battlements are that old, and still standing. They are good feats for engineers today. making structures this massive out of hand made and laid brick.

There are more pictures in my web link found here:   Orvieto Pictures

What I like about Orvieto is that it is a pretty typical italian town that has reborn itself based on its history and made Itself conform to its goal of displaying its history and charm.It is different in that it is a living vibrant village with people living and working there, unlike some other villages which are strictly "tourist traps".

Oh, as far as my fellow potter and teacher Marino was concerned. I never did find his castle on the hill. I never realized the whole city was a hill. I did find several very interesting ceramic shops.

I would love the have the skills to do pieces like these.
Merrillee, who I mentioned in the first paragraph produces hand drawn pieces like this. Its not the pottery piece. I can make plates like this all day long. But spending the time and having the skill to detail this work is beyond my skills at this point. That is why I've taken up painting in acrylics, to hopefully learn the patience and skills to do art pieces like these.
The town of Orvieto is picturesque, hill, old and very clean. The Italians relish old, Old is character, Old is to be respected, and Old is strength.